MEXICO “MI CORAZON” : AZUL Y ORO, GOING BACK TO SCHOOL

I have never been afraid to admit that I am a tourist not a traveller.

Despite the fact that I have been hauling my 90lbs rucksack “Big Red” around the world and have been on forms of transport that could be used as methods of punishment, I am still a man who likes to see the sights.

So today, there I was, I fetching shorts and walking shoes traipsing around Mexico City taking pictures like a good ‘un

However, by midday, I was ready for something a little different and hopped on the city’s efficient metro system and headed to the end of the line some forty minutes or so in search of a special lunch.

I had been told that Azul Y Oro, in its unlikely situation in the Centro Cultural of Mexico City’s National University, was one of the best places in town and that its chef, Ricardo Munoz was amongst the most highly regarded in the country being the author of “ The Gastronomic Dictionary Of Mexico”

It is, indeed, an odd place, situated in the heart of the university campus with a feel more like a canteen than a high end restaurant.

But, it is worth the effort of schlepping out there and offered up one taste that was a revelation and amongst the top five on the EAT MY GLOBE trip so far.

I began, simply enough, with a Crema De Cilantro which came with slivers of toasted almonds and a dash of Mexican Crema on top. It was perfectly fine but merely set the scene for the next dish which I waited for while chomping on a dish of candied Jamaica.

Mexico is, of course, famous for Mole. I had tasted some in various ersatz Mexican places in London and had even tried to make one myself. Nothing quite prepared my for first taste of a proper example.

My next course was a Mole Negro Con Pollo. I chose the alternative that offered up a thigh and drumstick and was presented with the meat in a thick, dark and rich sauce that glistened promisingly in the dish.

It tasted every bit as good as it looked. I will find it hard to fully describe just how glorious it was. Smokey, slightly sweet and with a level of heat. But, there was much more, representing the many ingredients and long slow preparation that go to make this sauce. I mopped it up with the whole wheat tortilla which came with it and was about to pick up the bowl and lick it clean but it was whisked away before I could make a show of myself.

After that, I could not bring myself to ruin the memory with a pointless pudding, so just got the bill which, including a refreshing glass of Horcharta ( in Mexico made with rice milk not with tiger Nut milk like the ones I tried in Valencia) and a Pepsi, came to 150 peso including tip (about £7) which represents astonishing value for a meal which included a dish I shall remember for a long, long time.

I don’t know about you, but food was never this good when I was at University.

Off to Buenos Aries

MEXICO “ MI CORAZON”: SKINNED UP IN MEXICO CITY

It will probably not come as any surprise to, well anybody really, that I have done some foolish things in my life.

There was the time I suggested to my then wife that she was “a little rubenesque” a phrase that came back to haunt me when she decided to end our “loving” union in a legal manner.

There was the time I suggested to George Galloway that he might be a bit more popular if he had a wee dram every now and again.

And, believe it or not, I have even spent my own cash money on cookery books by Gordon Ramsay. Hard to believe but shamefully true.

However, tonight will stand high amongst the ranks of my own stupidity, for tonight was the night I decided to have a meal entirely based around the nutritious bounty that is pig skin.

Now, don’t get me wrong. I am as big a fan of pig skin as it is possible to find without being a pig who is threatened with losing it. I love them in bags of porky scratchings washed down with a shudder making pint of something in The Wenlock Arms. I love them with a “copa” of something or other when they are presented as a freebie in Spain and I have enjoyed them so far on this trip where they are in huge bubbly, crispy slabs.

But, this was different, oh so different.

I am in Mexico City now and headed out to the Zona Rosa area for supper. Many of the big hotels are situated here and, consequently, so are the restaurants aimed squarely at separating US visitors from their ever weakening dollar. However, Fundo “El Refugio” came recommended and, as an institution that has been around for forty years, is not to be taken lightly.

I don’t know what I was thinking, there was much on the menu to entice. The daily special of Mole Poblano looked like it could fit the bill and there were a host of other specialities from all over Mexico to choose from. But, as soon as my eyes hit the centre of the menu and saw “Manitas De Cerdo En Vinagre” I knew I was not going to be able to look much further. Directly below it was a line that read “Chicharron En Salsa Verde” and that was it, the deed was done.

First up, the Manitas, pickled pig’s feet served with a salad of pickled vegetables. I like pig’s feet, well you are forced to aren’t you? But this was two of them and from a big critter. A few mouthfuls was fine. More proved more challenging and the last few almost unbearable. It was everything you would expect a dish with the words “pickled” and “pig’s feet” to be, gelatinous pig skin, of course, but also chewy at the same time. Not unpleasant, but not wonderous enough to make me chomp through two of the things.

I was practically on my own in the place at this time as I had decided to have an early night (a night that will now be filled with dreams of chewy snorters) so my next dish came out almost as soon as I had finished the last bit of skin off the feet.

Chicharron are, if you have been paying attention, strips of pig skin, some with bits of meat still attached. These had been cooked until soft (almost like tripe) and then served in an arse threatening salsa of screamingly hot green chilli.

I managed quite a lot of it, Primarily because the waiter was peering at me to see how I was getting on and I do so hate to let anyone down. But, I am already regretting it and may see a re-visitation at some point during the night.

I could not face any postres or post prandials, so just got my bill and left pretty rapidly before they saw me turn green. It came to about £12 including tip and a beer, so as mistakes go, it was not that costly and certainly not as costly as suggesting that my wife was a bit chubby.

However, I may well have that early night now. I am feeling rather ill

MEXICO “MI CORAZON”: HOME & AWAY IN MORELIA

I am about to head off to Mexico City. Those who know me will find the notion that I am about to make the journey by bus an amusing one, but, I am rather looking forward to it.

What I am not looking forward to is leaving the company of my new chums, Cristina and Judy. Cristina is the author of arguably the best blog on Mexican cooking I have come across (www.mexicocooks.typead.com) and the last few days in her company has served as an incredible introduction into the styles of food in this remarkable country.

As a parting meal, Cristina and Judy invited me to have breakfast with them at their stunning home about two blocks from my hotel. She had promised me Chilaquiles. I had no idea what the hell they were, but suspected it would be good so turned up promptly at their place at 10am as requested.

Chilaquiles, so it turned out, is a breakfast dish made of day old tortilla, eggs, chilli and onions.

The onions are fried with a Serrano chilli before the tortilla is torn up and added to the pan and cooked until warmed through. Eggs, in our case two each and two for the pot, are added and cooked until set. The dish is served topped with a liberal drizzle of crema.

Alongside this eggy beauty, Cristina also served up some refrioles which, again showing my ignorance, I thought meant “refried beans” but actually means “well fried beans”

We sat outside in their lovely garden and chatted as we ate until it was time for me to leave them to their real life and head back to my hotel.

This evening, I had one of those, oh so necessary things on the EAT MY GLOBE trip, a night in with some take away food, a large bottle of beer and the TV ( there are many channels in English with Spanish sub titles here, Deo Gratia)

However, this is like no take out I can recall. No putrid kebabs or greasy food from the chip shop or Chinese take away. Here, I was able to buy half a conejo (rabbit) whch came with enough tortilla for six people, guacamole and more refrioles (well fried beans remember?)

The kind lady in the restaurant saw me looking longingly at a large slab of chiccerones, so cut off a big portion as a freebie and crammed it into my bag as I was leaving.

All the above, yours for 60 pesos (that’s about £3 to you and me)

I think I am going to miss Mexico when I come to leave next week.

MEXICO “ MI CORAZON”: DOWN IN THE BASEMENT ON THE DAY OF THE DEAD

After a very enjoyable few days in Guadalajara, I have moved to the altogether more chilled town of Morelia in the state of Michoacan.

When I arrived, things were in full swing for the celebrations for The Day of The Dead, one of the biggest festivals in the town’s calendar. Streets are filled with Offrenda (altars to the deceased) Katrine (stylised skeletons) and flowers of orange and purple.

While all this was going on above ground, it seems only fitting that on The Day of The Dead, I should have my supper underground.

My chums, Cristina and Judy took me to supper at a kermesse. These are fairs, usually held to raise money for a church, where booths are set up selling local specialities. In the case of The Church of The Immaculate Conception, in Morelia, it became such a success, it is now a permanent feature in the basement of the church completed with the funds raised.

When we arrived, the hall was packed with families from grandparents to babies in arms all having a good old scoff.

It operates like a food court. Tickets are purchased from a cashier and then exchanged for food at any one of the twenty or so counters offering everything from Enchilladas to Tamales to drinks of Aqua Fresca in various flavours.

Taking the view that the longest lines must lead to the best food, we began with a Pomboza which is a sandwich stuffed with a hash, dipped in salsa and then grilled. It is a heart attack inducing plateful, but in the way of all good sarnies (see Hot Dogs, Po’Boys and Philly Cheese Steaks) it can be addictively good.

I also wanted to try an enchilada as the only examples I have ever encountered have been the scary, breeze block monstrosities in abominable Tex mex places.

Well, these were nothing like anything I have had before. Tortilla are dipped in a fiery salsa, quickly fried and filled with onions. Then they are topped with a mix of vegetables and hunks of meat, in this case chicken and the lot is topped with the ubiquitous dressings of salsa and queso. It is not an elegant plate to look at, but the taste is something else with the chilli of the chicken flesh working well with soft enchilada.

Similarly, a quesadilla fritas was like nothing I have tried before. Crunchy pockets of corn masa filled with soft, melting queso and topped with a dribble of crema.

No one would ever call this elegant food. It is meant to be tasty, which it is, fill people up (which it certainly does) and cost little (our food cost about £5 in total)

It is not all good either. A drink called Atole is, shall we say an acquired taste. If I was being kind I would say it tastes like flour mixed with condensed milk.

Also, dessert tamale coloured to look like the Mexican flag were dry and tasteless. But, on the whole, this was a great way to eat, to see locals doing what they do and to try some of the specialities from the region.

Dead good you could say. Perhaps not

MEXICO "MI CORAZON": ACTING THE GOAT IN GUADALAJARA

So, I am, those of you who read both blogs will be glad to know, finally catching up with my journey over on EAT MY GLOBE.

But, I still thought it would be interesting for some of you to see what I have been up to here in Mexico.

It is my first visit to this extraordinary country and, with the help of my friends, Cristina and Judy, I have been exploring a lot of the local markets and food stands.

Particular favourites have been my morning excursions for Tacos De Tripa which are as the name suggests, tacos with tripe. The tripe is deep fried and served on fresh small, double layered tortilla which you then top with onions, coriander leaf and fresh salsa before squeezing lime juice all over them. Incredibly addictive and I have eaten about ten in two days (which cost about £2 in total)

Equally good were the fish and shrimp tacos I tried for lunch on Monday on to which I poured rather too much japaleno relish and am still being reminded of the fact by my disappointed stomach. It was worth every arse blistering second for the taste, however as the soft tortilla gives way to the crunch of the battered fish and the fresh fire of the salsa.

Oh, and there are large plates of chicherones everywhere. That is seldom a bad thing.

Best meal of the trip so far was lunch yesterday at El Chololo. Around for nearly eighty five years, it is known for serving the best Birria in the state of Jalisco. At weekends, the lines of cars head miles down the street which is quite something considering they can sit a thousand people at any one time. The place is filled with mariachi bands serenading locals with songs that inevitably involve “Mi Corazon”

Birria involves goat (lots of them in this case as they get through seven hundred a week) which is braised in a broth with chilli, lime and some other spices. It is then pulled apart and glazed with a reduced version of the broth before being shoved under a grill to get crispy on top.

It comes served with a bowl of the original cooking liquor which is spiked with lime, chilli and salt, fresh tortilla, refrioles (refried beans) and some more punchy salsa.

I have had versions of this before in London, but nothing close to this in texture or taste. It is surprisingly subtle and the combination of flavours and textures is as addictive as the tacos with the crunch of the outside of the goat giving way to the soft flesh.

We just had to have a song to see us on our way and Cristina treated me to a rendition of a song which as well as “Mi Corazon” of course, demanded that I “come back, come back, come back” I can only hope I will

It is pretty early here now, I am heading out to eat some more of those tripe tacos. I am pretty sure they will be coming back at some point too.