THE HAWKSMOOR HAMBURGER: AT LAST A DECENT BURGER IN LONDON
Well, it took nearly three years of plaintive moaning from London's meat enthusiasts, but I am pleased to say that the good people of Hawksmoor have finally caved and thrown their buns into the capital's burger wars.
It's been no small matter either, because as with most exploits, Hawksmoor like to do things properly not quickly. So, I was told by Tim, the estimable manager, they have tasted over forty different buns, as many cheeses and enough ground meat to make Tobe hooper shudder.
But, I am delighted to say, the wait has been worthwhile.
The offer of burger and chips at Hawksmoor is not a cheap one. It comes in at a hefty £15 with an order of triple cooked chips. But for that sizable amount you are presented with the best part of 1/2lb of lean longhorn mixed with fattier cuts including two I had never encountered "clod" and "sticking" which I am told are from the shoulder and add richneess to the burger. So to does the clever addition of bone marrow. With the option of Oggleshield cheese, the burger is served pink and comes on a semi-sweet brioche bun with a dressing of raw red onion, lettuce, tomato and a mustard mayonnaise.
As with all good burgers, the knife and fork provided should never be touched and the Hawksmoor Hamburger is one to be picked up and chewed upon in Desperate Dan size bites as the juices flow from meat, to chin to floor. It does not disappoint, but, there are still elements that need improvement. The cheese needs to melt more before the burger is presented, the bun needs to be toasted less, if indeed at all and the mustard mayonnaise needs a spot more punch. An additional option of bacon was not available because the batch sent from The Ginger Pig was too salty.
But, these are small matters for a superb hunk of meat that comes the closest yet to those that gladden my fatty heart on visits to the good old US of Stateside.
As I said, it's not cheap, but by comparison to those on offer elswhere in London (Hache apart) this is welcome news for London's downtrodden burger enthusiasts.
All they need now is to listen to my cries for a Hawksmoor hot dog and even I might stop complaining