FISH CENTRAL

To make you feel all warm and cozy
Like you heard a good joke

It's been a while since Dos Hermanos have visited Fish Central, our local Fish and Chips outlet. I think we had a duff meal there that wasn't that cheap and decided to go and try the other fine chippies that the capital has to offer. So on a fine Bank Holiday, nursing a nagging hangover caused by too much strange-coloured grappa the previous evening, I dragged my sorry ass down to King Square EC1 for some restorative carbs.

Not much has changed in the two years since our last visit. The room is still large and functional and was sparsely populated by the usual punters: a smattering of local families, weekenders who had wandered in from the nearby Thistle Hotel, some OAPs and moi.

First, a little fish cake, a gift from the kitchen (if you will) that was actually very good. I didn't bother with a menu but went straight for one of the specials, Deep Fried Hake, a fish I haven't seen in a F&C shop for over thirty years. And I think I now know why.

The frying was very good: clean oil, right temperature and so on but I don't think this method of cooking suits Hake. The fish was disappointingly bland, Hake has a subtle taste, and the texture wasn't right - too soft. The latter down to the fish again, I think, rather than any failure of technique or the quality of the raw ingredient. Still, it wasn't bad and the batter was crisp and the chips were ace, so another visit might be in order to try their haddock. And yet again I found that the perfect accompaniment to fish and chips isn't beer, or wine, or champagne, but tea – builder's preferably – perfection in a mug.