VARIOUS ‘07

Here at Laughing Pines
Where the party never ends

A bit late but what the hell. So, in no particular order these are my best and worst of the year (UK only).

Bouquets to:

La Petite Maison for that Chicken and Chef Raphael Duntoye’s friendliness and generosity

Magdalen for just about everything

The Granville for Baby Dover Sole and a superb Antipasti plate.

Margot’s for food you’d want to eat every day * not forgetting the freshest Mackerel I’ve ever had (so that’s how it’s supposed to taste) and the friendliest crew – no wonder it’s the hardest res in town

The Pot Kiln where I had the best Pigeon and Venison…Ever !!!

The Narrow mmmm... Faggots

The Sportsman for fabulous Native Oysters and Thornback Ray (and half bottles of champagne…hic)

Brickbats to Eyre Brothers, Vanilla, Stanza and The Duke of Cambridge who really need to try a lot harder but probably won’t

The wooden spoon goes to LMNT II which was not very nice and where I watched the kitchen gather for an impromptu debate regarding my Belly of Pork before finally deciding to serve it crackling side down. In the gravy.

And finally apologies to HS for not posting about Hibiscus, Texture, L’Autre Pied, The Goods Shed, Thomas Cubitt, Stanza, Vanilla, JSW and The Mercer (cos I a lazy git innit ?) which I may try and revisit at some point. Assuming they’re still around.

* Although I find the Sticky Toffee Pudding a tad dry

The Narrow

TEN MILLIGRAMS OF CHRONAX
WILL WHIP YOU BACK THROUGH TIME

You’ve got to hate Gordon Ramsay. Pug faced, foul mouthed, vilified in that most demanding of restaurant towns, NYC and apart from frying something occasionly on TV when was the last time he actually cooked ? Even on a visit several years ago to RHR although the flunkies swore he was in the kitchen you just knew he wasn’t, not least because we saw him and his little chum Marcus ringside at a Ricky Hatton Fight not that many hours later. And yet he’s building one of the biggest high-end restaurant empires going and seems to attract success and money with every passing day. Unfortunately much as I wanted to hate his foray into the pub business (although the PR mentions GR Holdings and not the man himself) it was, annoyingly rather good.

The Narrow is a pub overlooking the Thames at Limehouse in the East End. At the moment it still has that overwhelming whiff off of the new but will bed in nicely and once the summer comes will be a very pleasant place to eat. It’s still a great place to eat at the moment and I would suggest a visit ASAP while John Collin and Mark Sargeant are looking after the kitchen. This is as good a pub meal, or rather a meal in a pub as you are going to get.

A starter of devilled lamb kidneys brought several fine specimens cooked pink with an aroma that was just the right side of the farmyard. Some more sauce to soften the toasted bread would have been the only improvement. A salad of leaves, radish and beetroot needed a bit more seasoning but was otherwise ok. Things were kicked up many notches by a dish of Faggot made from Veal and its offal, served with marrowfat peas. Expertly made with a fine flavour that was more reminiscent of a fine dining resto than a pub. This was also evident in the well cooked marrowfat peas and the beautifully judged gravy. A tremendous dish. In the interest of research I also ordered some chips which didn’t disappoint. Gentle reader I scoffed the lot.

The friendly and efficient staff gave me a little breathing space before I ended the meal with some satisfying Rhubarb Crumble, served a la mode. A special word also for the Drury Lane Coffee which was da bomb (sorry, but it was fantastic).

So another DH “go there now” recommendation. Like I said you’ve gots to hate him.