THE MITRE AND ANGEL MANGAL: MAKING UP WITH MUSTAPHA

If you have been reading along in the last few weeks, you will recall that DH had a very dispiriting evening at A N OTHER Turkish joint up in Dalston recently. A lousy meal compounded by the guilt we felt at “cheating” on our pal Mustapha at The Angel Mangal.

So, last night, we decided to make up for it.

A few beers first of course. Not this time at our other second home, The Wenlock Arms, but at a couple of famous pubs around Holborn.

The Mitre was decked out already in its Christmas lights and packed to the gunwales. Unfortunately the beer was not up to much so we left after one pint and headed to The Seven Stars by Lincoln’s Inn where it was equally as full but at least the Adnams was on form.

By now, we were a couple of sheets at least to the wind so caught a cab up to the Mangal. Mustapha was there, unsmiling and solemn but he seemed to forgive us in part, I suspect, because of HP’s feigned interest in the results of Beshiktas.

What can I tell you? For all the silliness we hear so often about there being better Turkish options than AM, we have yet to find any place that comes close in quality either of the ingredients or how they are prepared. Sure it’s not the cheapest option given its location on Upper St, but nowhere so far has come within a country mile.

To begin, some of those perfunctory starters that fill time until the main event. Served with some huge pillow bread and some soft warm flat bread, it certainly took the edge off our beer fuelled hunger

Foolishly, as we were a bit, well rat arsed, we also ordered a Pide. Now, I am not fond of Pizza, as it is officially snot on toast. But, this, I like, although HP was not taken with my choice of the “breakfast” version heaped with tomatoes, spicy sausage and egg. Rather liked it myself.

I did begin to regret it ,however when I saw the Special Mixed Grill with a huge plate of plump sweetbreads alongside it. There can be little better value in London for £12.95 pp. I had forgotten what a gargantuan serving it was.

Crispy chicken wings, two whole quail, lamb ribs and lamb loin, adana wrapped in more flat bread and, best of all, the finest lamb chops I have eaten this year. Spectacular. All served with a huge salad, lots of chilli and garlic sauce and a bottle or two of rough but appropriate Turkish wine.

It is going to be a VERY long time before we bother to try any other Okabassi in London again.

Mustapha, how could we ever have doubted you?