DOS HERMANOS GO SPAIN: MAINLY MAHOU
As soon as I walked into the bar that familiar smell - a mixture of frying, coffee and Ducados - hit me. The tough, knife-wielding chica behind the zinc counter threw out a gruff digame which demanded the response of cana (although with my Northern European twang it sounded incredibly limp and effete compared to her deep and throaty growl).
A small glass was filled with beer, the foaming head expertly sliced away with a knife, and slammed down in front of me. Moments later a small plate of prawns, heavily salted and darkened by their contact with the plancha, were banged down next to the beer. I picked up one of the prawns and bit its head off, sucking it noisily, then depositing it on the floor, already littered with fishy carapaces. I took a sip of the beer, cold and mouth-puckeringly bitter. Some of the beer splashed onto my trousers. I let out a curse. I looked up and the chica was smirking. I drained my glass and demanded an otra. This time my voice sounded deeper more authentic. Now, I was definitely in Madrid.
Madrid is a city that just works for Dos Hermanos and at the heart of it all is the bar. Unless you've been in a Spanish bar especially one in this city then you won't understand how central they are to Spanish life. Food is always provided, either at the counter or in a small comida at the back of the bar. There'll be a hatch through which you'll see a woman (it´s always a woman) hard at work cooking. The waiters and barmen will be wearing black trousers and ill-fitting white shirts. There may be some bowties as well. They´ll be of the miserablist tendency, sure, but will also be super-efficient. Best of all though with your cana you´ll get a free tapa.
I´m guessing here but Madrid has the largest number of bars per capita in Europe, possibly the World and although I always try and visit some old favourites I'm gradually working my way through them all. Does life get any better ?
¡Salud!
Labels: Bars, Madrid, Spain, Tapas
4 Comments:
is that an anchovy on the jamon ?what did that combo taste like?
It might have been a bit of jamón cocido or beicon - the combos usually work pretty well. I the taste here may been salty but with a Mahou to wash it down pretty much perfect.
HP
HP 1 - Can you please name some of the bars you recommend? I just booked a trip to Madrid in November and the food looks divine.
I don't recommend any particular bars. Just find a suitable area and bar hop.
If it's your first time Calle Baja and the surrounding streets are decent hunting grounds.
Ponzano, Retiro and Barrio Salamanca towards the North Eaat end are my particular favourite zones. If the free tapa is decent try a racion otherwise move on.
HP
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