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Tuesday, October 13, 2009

BANGALORE EXPRESS: CONFUSING











HP and I like to play a little game when we are watching football. We try to come up with the perfect adjective for each team taking part, particularly during international games. It allows us the opportunity to drag every possible stereotype from the locker. So the Germans are “efficient” the French “mercurial” the Italians “cunning” and the Russians "ruthless" The English? Well of course the English are “hapless” or if we are feeling more charitable “frustrating”

I wonder if the same game could be played with restaurants? Maze would be “woeful” Anything related to Tom Aikens could be “cynical” and Rules could be “immutable” If I was asked to include in the game today’s lunch at Bangalore Express today, the only word I could come up with would be “confusing”

It’s a relatively new venture, the second branch of the chain, which forms the easy access route to Chelsea’s The Painted Heron. Open for only three weeks, the restaurant is obviously yet to get the word out about its existence or its location, down a small alleyway opposite Leadenhall Market. For the whole of my lunch, I was the only person in the place and spent the meal smiling uneasily at a lot of bored looking waitresses who seemed genuinely surprised when I walked through the door.

The menu, quite frankly is a mess. There is an a la carte option with some very unpleasant sounding dishes indeed. Indian Calzone, anyone? I thought not. There is also a mix and match option called “Big Plates of Curry & Rice” which would allow you to create some equally unpleasant combinations, Duck Vindaloo anyone? I thought not. There is a low fat option, Indian “tapas” option and even a “deluxe" option offering dishes from The Painted Heron. You would need a three year degree, not a single lunchtime to try and figure it all out.

Such a confusion of possibilities would not matter if the cooking were any good. But, as soon as my own choice of a Vegetable Thali arrived (chosen more to prevent bewilderment than enthusiasm) it was obvious that the food lacked thought and, even worse, passion. They had decided to ignore the traditional thali presentation with small steel bowls of each dish to be mixed by hand with plain rice on a large steel plate (or originally a banana leaf) instead cramming all the food artlessly onto one white plate.

The end result is a messy plateful of colours not helped by the fact that none of the food actually tastes any good. Quite why they had to use the Japanese word “tempura” to describe an assortment of oily vegetables in a soggy batter, I am not sure, but if they were meant to be bhaji, they have some real issues in the kitchen. The lurid orange sauce covering some decent paneer was thin in flavour and the same was true of a “dumpling curry” Only a small blob of spinach and roasted chickpeas showed what they could do if they turned their mind to it. A dry and leathery roti was a final insult and left me pushing my plate away and calling for the bill of £15 including service and a flat glass of Diet Coke.

The owners of Bangalore Express seem frightened that by offering “real” Indian food prepared and served as it should be, they are going to alienate their possible audience. Instead they are serving up potentially bizarre combinations of not very nice food with a vague Indian twist. I am not sure at whom this restaurant is aimed. It's certainly not me and, judging from the empty room while I ate my lunch, not many other people either.

Confusing indeed.

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9 Comments:

Blogger Mita said...

Ha! Leathery chappatis! I could almost taste the food you described. Sounds like what's doled out to millions of kids in Indian boarding schools everyday (minus the calzone of course:)Maybe that's the audience they're targetting?;)

Tuesday, October 13, 2009 3:30:00 pm  
OpenID foodtravelbangalore said...

I am from Bangalore. Please take a can of black paint and wipe out the first word in the name. Please. I'm begging you. Before too many people see it. *Cringe*

Tuesday, October 13, 2009 4:02:00 pm  
Blogger Lizzie said...

The 'make your own' curry option is hideous. I physically recoiled at the 'sweet potato mash' option in the veg section.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009 10:43:00 pm  
Blogger Primixed said...

I'm from Bangalore too, and shudder to think that anyonje would associate this unholy mess with my beautiful city, which has pretty beautiful food! INdian calzone, Indian tempura (soggy), Leathery chappatis... Blech.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009 6:49:00 am  
Blogger Mr Noodles said...

Tempura for bhaji - I hate it when restaurants transplant a word from another language when a perfectly good word already exists. It's slightly more forgivable if its an unfamilar cuisine but who really doesn't know what a bhaji is? And the use of the word 'tapas' in non-Spanish cuisine also gets my goat too.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009 7:02:00 am  
Blogger keefab said...

Hi, KP here,

Sounds terrible. On the other hand, I spent Saturday evening in the company of the Mooil brothers.
These are the guys I told you about who are opening in Soho: they are from Bangalore and will be offering fresh-made, expert-spiced curries with hand-crafted chutneys in home made bread.
There's no lurid orange in this food, buddy boy. I took them ginger biscuits and tried their food on Saturday. I even met their mother, who was charming.

They're opening at the start of November. I promised them I'd get you involved.

Get involved.

I will send details anon.

Much love,

KP
www.poshfodder.co.uk

Wednesday, October 14, 2009 9:30:00 am  
Anonymous Ian said...

H2,welcome back to the UKKK.
We missed you (and you write more eloquently than H1!but don't tell him as he seems very ornery)

Wednesday, October 14, 2009 9:41:00 am  
Blogger ian said...

you're not ian, i'm ian

Thursday, October 15, 2009 7:04:00 am  
Blogger The Larder Lout said...

I ignored the warnings and went anyway. Error. Pretty grim place.

Saturday, November 21, 2009 11:12:00 am  

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