"It's not much but it's ours"

Tuesday, June 14, 2011


When people realise you’re a bit more interested in food and restaurants than would be considered normal in polite company the first thing they do is ask you what your favourite restaurant is. To be honest I haven’t really got a favourite restaurant. Honest.

What I do like though, what really floats my boat and pulls my chain is propping up a Spanish bar. It’s probably in Madrid, on a cold day with that incandescent sunlight that you get in one of Europe’s highest capital cities. The barman would be of the grumpy tendency but the caña of Mahou he had just poured would be cold and have a thick, creamy head.

I would wait for my free tapa - a piece of tortilla or maybe a handful of cortezas de cerdo - before ordering un ración de jamón ibérico de bellota. He would cut the ham quickly and expertly, laying the slices in an outwardly radiating spiral, finally dropping some picos into the centre. I would take a sip of the cold, slightly bitter beer then pick up a slice of the jamón, oily from the melting fat, between thumb and forefinger. I would hold it up and briefly examine it against the light before shoving it down my gob.

At this point my interrogator would already be walking away, staring at the floor and shaking their head.

José in Bermondsey street is billed as a Sherry Bar but actually that description undersells it. For starters the wine list, whilst it has a good range of sherries has a lot of other good stuff on it (the list was put together by a couple of Masters of Wine). Also I can't think of many sherry bars that have open kitchens with several top chefs beavering away in them.

Decor is clean and functional and as in most places in Spain you have to find yourself a space at the bar or an upturned barrel to eat at - the idea of sitting at tables to eat any other than a proper is unknown in Spain (although that is changing).

Of course, all this would count for nada if the food wasn’t any good. Happily it is. José is an exemplar of the cliché of the best ingredients cooked simply. This is the stuff that all those Spanish Michelin chefs really want to eat on their day off. There will be a new restaurant opening later in the year where I suspect we may see more evolved dishes but for now José more than fits the bill.

A blackboard shows the daily market specials which is supplemented by a longer list on the menu. They're actually more akin to the Spanish media ración in size than tapas but whatever you want to call them the quality of the ingredients used is the key here.

Croquetas de jamón are sometimes a bit oily and over-fried which usually makes me a bit queasy but these were perfect: light, studded with jewel-like bits of ham, I could have eaten several more plates of these. The most fantastic Prawns cooked with a little chilli and garlic and were so good I did order another plate.

Jamón Ibérico is from Manuel Maldonado who is based not far from Jose’s hometown of Cáceres. With jamón it’s all about the cutting – you should be able to the read the maker’s name on the blade through the meat - and while it may sound xenophobic when you have the good stuff you don’t want a guiri wielding the knife. As well as being of exemplary quality this is the best cut jamón you’re going to get in London.

Razor Clams (from Scotland) come simply cooked on the plancha with a bit of chorizo and mint. Almejas are huge and meaty and you'll definitely want some bread to mop up the sherry broth.

Wonderfully fresh Sardines possibly could have done with a bit more char - they can take it - but were wonderfully fresh. Ditto some Mackerel in an escabeche which can be a bit iffy if the fish isn't up to snuff.

Pluma Ibérica (so named because of its resemblance to a feather) is one of those cuts of Pork like secreto and presa that the Spanish go nuts about but which are seldom seen over here. Well-marbled and with a lovely layer of fat it's cooked quickly so still rare inside and served with piquillo peppers. Combine some of the sweet pepper with the rich, rare pork to see what the fuss is about.

Puds are not really a Spanish forte and in lieu of helado mixta a glass of Victoria Ordoñez Malaga No. 2 and some Strawberries and Cherries more than passed muster.

Service is friendly and clued-up and really adds to the great atmosphere of the place – blimey, even a hard-hearted, old curmudgeon like me had a smile on my face (although that may have been the wine).

Three hours of a Saturday lunchtime had never passed more quickly and in a drunken, post-meal tweet I posited the fact that this was currently the best Spanish cooking in London. In the sober light of day I see no reason to retract that statement.

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Anonymous TonyS said...

So, about £60 for the grub and £50 for the booze? Must remember that the next time I pop into the Toby Carvery near Walsall. :-)

Wednesday, June 15, 2011 2:01:00 pm  
Blogger Hermano 1 said...

They're different things FFS. One's a carvery run by Mitchells & Butlers Leisure Retail Limited in Walsall and the other is a Sherry bar in London. But in the unlikely event of me being in the Black Country I'll try and remember your wise words. A fiver should do it right?

Wednesday, June 15, 2011 3:31:00 pm  
Blogger Jess said...

Enticing review & photos this sounds an amazing place - will definately pay this place a visit. Cheers.

Thursday, June 16, 2011 1:48:00 am  
Anonymous TonyS said...

And a shilling change.

Thursday, June 16, 2011 11:38:00 am  
Blogger Hermano 1 said...

Nothing but the best from Toby Carvery eh? Ever worked how much _they_ are paying for their ingredients ;-)

Friday, June 17, 2011 11:23:00 am  
Anonymous TonyS said...

Most of Toby's vegetables were grown this decade, and all the meat is the product of at least one named species.

Monday, June 20, 2011 1:53:00 pm  
Blogger Hermano 1 said...

So that's a don't know then ;-)

Monday, June 20, 2011 2:49:00 pm  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Tony S,

I always come back to this site because Dos Hermanos, brave chaps that they are, make a point of ordering multiple dishes. they have appetites for food and drink that would make mortal men weep into their albondigas, hold up their hands and say, "no mas".

and if you are going to review a restaurant or write a blog that i want to read, you damn well ought to try a few things on the menu so that you get a fair idea of what the kitchen can do.

hence the large bill.. nothing to stop you heading down there and ordering some patatas bravas and boquerones (that's fish and chips to you) for £7.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011 4:17:00 pm  
Blogger Hermano 1 said...

Tony! Toni! Toné!

I'm sure you have a point but it beats me what it is.


Thursday, June 23, 2011 12:05:00 am  
Blogger German said...

I almost give up to go to Spanish restaurant in England, but Jose look very autenthic. The jamon look like very good quality. In brighton i got lucky with the re-lunch of Latino and now i will try Jose. Thanks

Thursday, June 23, 2011 10:59:00 am  
Blogger Paula Pacheco said...

Nice pictures, I loved :)

Thursday, June 23, 2011 7:01:00 pm  
Anonymous Rachel at Catalan Cooking said...

I went with a visiting friend having gone to Bocca di Lupo the night before. Being a friend of Jose I have a vested interest in it being good, but I waited for my companion to pass judgement. He declared it utterly amazing, up to standard of some of the best tapas bars if its kind in Spain and far better than the previous night's offer.
I had to agree. Jose wasn't there that night either so he has put in place an excellent team.

Monday, July 04, 2011 12:30:00 pm  
Anonymous mensajes claro said...

And a shilling change.

Sunday, November 20, 2011 1:52:00 am  
Anonymous laptops said...

Looks so delicious.

Friday, December 09, 2011 4:36:00 pm  
Anonymous canciones nuevas said...

I want try it , It looks so delicious.

Sunday, April 15, 2012 6:55:00 pm  

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